Tana is the short name for the capitol city. I would butcher it if I tried to write the whole thing out.
Our first task of the day was to get plane tickets for our internal travel, which had proved too cumbersome from abroad. Well, they do not take travellers checks and the banks were closed. We were stuck for the weekend.
Somewhat frustrated, though never bowed, (we had wanted to get to Rs region in the north ASAP. the capitol, while interesting, is a bit high on itself and low on those people whoe dialect Robyn speaks best), we walked through the market. It was fascinating to see the ways it was the same in style and presentation as those in Central America, but different of course in many ways and things sold (wash your floor with a cut coconut!) , and that I had no idea what anyone was saying.
We napped in the afternoon.
In the evening we went to a lovely pizza dinner at an old haunt of Robyns. It was easy to see why ... the food was really good. But funny that when Robyn asked for directions by saying it was right near the US Embassy, people still had no good idea where that might be.
After dinner we went dancing at a place called the Glacier, another old haunt. It was packed, though small. The lead singer seemed to have heard the name Beyonce. We had a blast ... both so happy to be in this place .. old and new. Though we were underdressed, we gave it all we had! (And a sad, unfortunate old Belgian man made our acquiantance as well ... and while he was nice, and amusing, one did want to dwell on why he was really there)/
in any case, little by little , Robyns Madagascar was coming clearer to me ... the next day was even better.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Madagascar at Last!
It is clear already we shuld have skipped Honduras and come more quickly to Madagascar.
One of the most poignant and worth it moments of this trip so far for me has been seeing Robyn weep with overwhelmed joy as our plane landed in her long lost beloved country of her heart, Madagascar. I was so happy we made this happen.
The airport is far from the capitol city down town and the wing road is only one lane each way. It passes through rice fields and countryside. Like in Central America, passing on the left is common.
Robyns Malagasy, though not of this region of the country and not where she wanted it, broke immediately into impressive style and I knew I was in good hands.
As we got nearer and neare the city center I was struck by how people really did not treat the cars as having unquestioned command on the road. Lines of people on either side thickened, and gav way ulitmately of course, but made clear they had a rightful place in the street as well. Market was getting in gear, as peole got off work and walked home.
We arrived at the Hotel Sakamanga, meaning Blue Cat. It was a place in the center of town that Robyn could barely afford as a volunteer. We were happy for a nice room after our long travels and eager to get going.
One of the most poignant and worth it moments of this trip so far for me has been seeing Robyn weep with overwhelmed joy as our plane landed in her long lost beloved country of her heart, Madagascar. I was so happy we made this happen.
The airport is far from the capitol city down town and the wing road is only one lane each way. It passes through rice fields and countryside. Like in Central America, passing on the left is common.
Robyns Malagasy, though not of this region of the country and not where she wanted it, broke immediately into impressive style and I knew I was in good hands.
As we got nearer and neare the city center I was struck by how people really did not treat the cars as having unquestioned command on the road. Lines of people on either side thickened, and gav way ulitmately of course, but made clear they had a rightful place in the street as well. Market was getting in gear, as peole got off work and walked home.
We arrived at the Hotel Sakamanga, meaning Blue Cat. It was a place in the center of town that Robyn could barely afford as a volunteer. We were happy for a nice room after our long travels and eager to get going.
Leaving Paris
Our final day in Paris consisted of visitng the charming nearby Luxemburg Garden. Sitting and enjoying the newfound sun ... and planning our return.
We had to get to the airport early to see to our complicated ticket situation.
Good thing Paris is easy enough when one is a little older.
We had to get to the airport early to see to our complicated ticket situation.
Good thing Paris is easy enough when one is a little older.
Final Full Day in Paris : Visiting moms house
My mom and her family lived in Paris when she was a little girl. 1951 to 54 if I have it right. Today was the day to go find where she lived.
It is not really Paris, so much as the surrounds, so between metro and bus it took the whole first part of the day, there and back. Robyn helped, as always, to navigate. We found it ... and, to my surprise? bumped into the current owners, a young Vietnamese family. They were intrigued by the scene and let us in, and let us take photos of the outside. They are doing some work on it, so it does not look just as it did, but it was still a very special visit. Imagining the family there, and walking on those same streets, was very special ... and I look forward to sharing the story with more of you when we return. Mom passed away exactly one and one half years before my visit to her old Paris home.
Back in town. we went back to the impressionist musuem. Robyn had bought tickets for us the day before. Of course we stopped in a bistro on a side street before and had a little cup of red wine with our meal.
The paintings, familiar and new, were spectacular of course .. and I continued to learn of Robyns love for (Rodin) sculpture. the Monet museum was also open. It features his waterlily murals. It was a very nice place to be contemplative, esp given the visit in the morning.
An unexpected highlight after that was a leisurely boat cruise down the Seine. We did not get off the boat ... just sat and looked. roby had never done it before either and it was a great viewpoint.
Dinner was another pick from the Tracy book, and another winner. Bistro Paul Bert. robyn said she was impressed, and though David would be proud, that I relished a dinner of steak, fries and Corsican wine. Finished with chocolate of course. Described all on a typical chalkboard menu. It was our best food yet.
We kept burning the candle by visiting with Robyns friend from UGA, Roberto, and his partner, now living in Paris. A drink in a bar, a drink at his apartment, we all met and caught up in style. It was a wonderful opportunity for all of us. And a good move toward keeping and builing a friendship.
We were in bed by 3.
It is not really Paris, so much as the surrounds, so between metro and bus it took the whole first part of the day, there and back. Robyn helped, as always, to navigate. We found it ... and, to my surprise? bumped into the current owners, a young Vietnamese family. They were intrigued by the scene and let us in, and let us take photos of the outside. They are doing some work on it, so it does not look just as it did, but it was still a very special visit. Imagining the family there, and walking on those same streets, was very special ... and I look forward to sharing the story with more of you when we return. Mom passed away exactly one and one half years before my visit to her old Paris home.
Back in town. we went back to the impressionist musuem. Robyn had bought tickets for us the day before. Of course we stopped in a bistro on a side street before and had a little cup of red wine with our meal.
The paintings, familiar and new, were spectacular of course .. and I continued to learn of Robyns love for (Rodin) sculpture. the Monet museum was also open. It features his waterlily murals. It was a very nice place to be contemplative, esp given the visit in the morning.
An unexpected highlight after that was a leisurely boat cruise down the Seine. We did not get off the boat ... just sat and looked. roby had never done it before either and it was a great viewpoint.
Dinner was another pick from the Tracy book, and another winner. Bistro Paul Bert. robyn said she was impressed, and though David would be proud, that I relished a dinner of steak, fries and Corsican wine. Finished with chocolate of course. Described all on a typical chalkboard menu. It was our best food yet.
We kept burning the candle by visiting with Robyns friend from UGA, Roberto, and his partner, now living in Paris. A drink in a bar, a drink at his apartment, we all met and caught up in style. It was a wonderful opportunity for all of us. And a good move toward keeping and builing a friendship.
We were in bed by 3.
Our second wedding Anniversary in Paris: foibles and Triumph
Day two in Paris was our second wedding anniversary. We had a big day planned. It didn?t quite go as we had envisioned.
We woke up late. (Dinner last night had been really good). We set off to see St. Chappelle. The line was MUCH longer than we had hoped. But we couldn?t put it off twice, so we stuck it out. It was cold, and if I recall correctly, a bit drizzly. And then just about 12: 30 we were informed it was closed from 1 to 2. We were not near the entrance. There was much grumbling all around. But we made it just in the nick of time. The chapel, while small, was stunning. virtually all the walls are stained glass depicting biblical scenes and stories. I had never seen anything like it .. becaus e nothing is.
Lunch had us looking for crepes .. and finding much more. Wine, prosciutto and mozarella salad, french onion soup, an entertaning waiter and crepes for dessert.
and Robyn helped me eavesdrop.
Then we went to the Monet museum. closed. The impressionist museum was unworkable because the weather was bad and the other museums closed, so the line was crushing.
Godd humored, we set off to the Eiffel Toweer. Another big line ... but what to do? hours later, after much shoving and hustling with other tourist, and braving wind and rain, we were at the top. We were so cold and wet we had to laugh. And kiss. Happy 2 years!
Then we wanted to take a boat ride down the river. We missed it.
So, off to dinner at Hotel du Nord. But that would assume we had the address.. we had planned to go home and pretty up first, but it was too late now ... too many lines. So we took a metro to where we thought it would be. We were wrong. So we had to beg a cabby to take us somewhere we could barely describe. Valiantly Robyn kept trying ... rejected three times before one guy took pity on us.
We had a great dinner. Duck, tuna, pork chops, kir royal ... and at the end of it all ... WE HAD NO DEBIT CARD ON HAND and not enough cash. Oh my. A fitting end, really. Robyn gave her driver license as collateral and we promised to return the next day.
Better to just go home than keep trying. We will always remember this one!
(Dont get me wrong .. it was great ... it was Paris!)
We woke up late. (Dinner last night had been really good). We set off to see St. Chappelle. The line was MUCH longer than we had hoped. But we couldn?t put it off twice, so we stuck it out. It was cold, and if I recall correctly, a bit drizzly. And then just about 12: 30 we were informed it was closed from 1 to 2. We were not near the entrance. There was much grumbling all around. But we made it just in the nick of time. The chapel, while small, was stunning. virtually all the walls are stained glass depicting biblical scenes and stories. I had never seen anything like it .. becaus e nothing is.
Lunch had us looking for crepes .. and finding much more. Wine, prosciutto and mozarella salad, french onion soup, an entertaning waiter and crepes for dessert.
and Robyn helped me eavesdrop.
Then we went to the Monet museum. closed. The impressionist museum was unworkable because the weather was bad and the other museums closed, so the line was crushing.
Godd humored, we set off to the Eiffel Toweer. Another big line ... but what to do? hours later, after much shoving and hustling with other tourist, and braving wind and rain, we were at the top. We were so cold and wet we had to laugh. And kiss. Happy 2 years!
Then we wanted to take a boat ride down the river. We missed it.
So, off to dinner at Hotel du Nord. But that would assume we had the address.. we had planned to go home and pretty up first, but it was too late now ... too many lines. So we took a metro to where we thought it would be. We were wrong. So we had to beg a cabby to take us somewhere we could barely describe. Valiantly Robyn kept trying ... rejected three times before one guy took pity on us.
We had a great dinner. Duck, tuna, pork chops, kir royal ... and at the end of it all ... WE HAD NO DEBIT CARD ON HAND and not enough cash. Oh my. A fitting end, really. Robyn gave her driver license as collateral and we promised to return the next day.
Better to just go home than keep trying. We will always remember this one!
(Dont get me wrong .. it was great ... it was Paris!)
More Paris
Last I left off, I had given a hurried account of our first day in Paris. Let me clarify that I write from the Madagascar town of Fianar, a few hours south of the capitol, where internet connections are very slow, so I don,t know just when I will be able to get you photos.
In any case, one of the best moments of Paris, as I said , was my first sight of it coming off the metro. After Robyn and I settled into our quaint little left bank , latin quarter hotel, we set off right away, knowing time was short. We stopped at a little bakery/ sandwich shop down from the hotel and got lunches of baguette sandwiches, an orangina and a little fruit tart each. We ate them, delighted, on q bench next to the river RIGHT across from Nortre Dame. It was amazing! We then crossed the bridge and went in to the church. Robyn had made sure that I, the unitiated to France, didn,t leave it off our list ... and that was a good call. It was, of course astounding in its grandeur, scope and detail.
We moved on from there to the St. Chappelle, a nearby cathedral famed for its stained glass. The line looked much too long, so we thought would move on and try again the next day.
You know wha we did the rest of the day.
At night we took the metro to a bistro we found in the book Tracy and David gave us, but it was closed so we meandered down the street, picked from one of many other options and had a lovely dinner in a charming cozy bistro. We enjoyed the house red .. and eating in close quarters with Parisians. We were off to a great start.
In any case, one of the best moments of Paris, as I said , was my first sight of it coming off the metro. After Robyn and I settled into our quaint little left bank , latin quarter hotel, we set off right away, knowing time was short. We stopped at a little bakery/ sandwich shop down from the hotel and got lunches of baguette sandwiches, an orangina and a little fruit tart each. We ate them, delighted, on q bench next to the river RIGHT across from Nortre Dame. It was amazing! We then crossed the bridge and went in to the church. Robyn had made sure that I, the unitiated to France, didn,t leave it off our list ... and that was a good call. It was, of course astounding in its grandeur, scope and detail.
We moved on from there to the St. Chappelle, a nearby cathedral famed for its stained glass. The line looked much too long, so we thought would move on and try again the next day.
You know wha we did the rest of the day.
At night we took the metro to a bistro we found in the book Tracy and David gave us, but it was closed so we meandered down the street, picked from one of many other options and had a lovely dinner in a charming cozy bistro. We enjoyed the house red .. and eating in close quarters with Parisians. We were off to a great start.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Rainy, Lovely Paris
Well folks, in so little time there is so much to say. I am writing, here with Robyn, from the Malagasy capitol city , but fear I will not even be able to finish a full Paris post tonight. And due to our camera being low on juice and good batteries being hard to rustle up here, photos , sadly , will be a bit delayed.
But I must still try to bring you at least some news of lovely, rainy Paris. We were only there 3 days, and it was gray most of the time and rainy some of it, but we will still treasure the memories forever.
Our hotel was on the left bank in the Latin quarter. It was small and quaint and refreshingly first world. Breakfast of croissants and coffee was included every morning. The main front desk host was the gloriously gay and multi lingual Edson. He was impeccably dressed.
Robyn's favorite memory of Paris, she claims, was seeing my excited face when we stepped off the metro and into our neighborhood. The old architecture amazed, and yes, they REALLY do have pastries, flowers and cafes every few feet. Delighted was an understatement.
The first afternoon went perfectly. We moved seamlessly from the Louvre, to the Tuliere gardens, down the Champs Elysee to the Arc de Triomphe (excuse that I can't spell French) It was cold, but amazing. In the Louvre we saw the Mona Lisa. The spectacle of people around her was almost as amazing as she. We also saw much sculpture that R remembered as captivating that she wanted to share with me ... and it was. I learened more and more last week how much sculpture speaks to her. We also saw crown jewels and Egytpian burials caskets. But you can lose a week in the Louvre if not careful, so we were away ...
On the Champs Elysee we were captivated by a showroom of tiny Peugot race cars. Robyn was surprised by how much the exhibit at the arc de Triumph has expanded.
Paris lay out before us .. and we were hooked!
More later ... food, snafus, art, mom's house, Robyns friend Roberto and our dreams of return.
But in case you are worried or curious ..
Madagascar is beatiful. Changed and the same it turns out, of course.
Robyn's Malagasy is coming back fast, though she wishes of course it would come faster
We set off tomorrow toward the south, and will end, with zeal, in her beloved northern region.
I am very excited, and so honored to have been invited.
But I must still try to bring you at least some news of lovely, rainy Paris. We were only there 3 days, and it was gray most of the time and rainy some of it, but we will still treasure the memories forever.
Our hotel was on the left bank in the Latin quarter. It was small and quaint and refreshingly first world. Breakfast of croissants and coffee was included every morning. The main front desk host was the gloriously gay and multi lingual Edson. He was impeccably dressed.
Robyn's favorite memory of Paris, she claims, was seeing my excited face when we stepped off the metro and into our neighborhood. The old architecture amazed, and yes, they REALLY do have pastries, flowers and cafes every few feet. Delighted was an understatement.
The first afternoon went perfectly. We moved seamlessly from the Louvre, to the Tuliere gardens, down the Champs Elysee to the Arc de Triomphe (excuse that I can't spell French) It was cold, but amazing. In the Louvre we saw the Mona Lisa. The spectacle of people around her was almost as amazing as she. We also saw much sculpture that R remembered as captivating that she wanted to share with me ... and it was. I learened more and more last week how much sculpture speaks to her. We also saw crown jewels and Egytpian burials caskets. But you can lose a week in the Louvre if not careful, so we were away ...
On the Champs Elysee we were captivated by a showroom of tiny Peugot race cars. Robyn was surprised by how much the exhibit at the arc de Triumph has expanded.
Paris lay out before us .. and we were hooked!
More later ... food, snafus, art, mom's house, Robyns friend Roberto and our dreams of return.
But in case you are worried or curious ..
Madagascar is beatiful. Changed and the same it turns out, of course.
Robyn's Malagasy is coming back fast, though she wishes of course it would come faster
We set off tomorrow toward the south, and will end, with zeal, in her beloved northern region.
I am very excited, and so honored to have been invited.
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