Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Overland to the Islands of Nosy Komba and Nosy Be

Nosy Be is the large island off the west coast of Madagascar in the north. Nosy Komba is a smaller island off Nosy Be.

On Thursday night we rode ten huors on the worst road we have ever seen in our lives-- a dirt path cutting east to west across the northern part of teh country. It is the only land route for this trip, and to go from the north on to the capitol. Its total abandonement demonstrates the oppressed status of the people of this region. I saw drivers of large trailer trucks sleeping at a "campsite" on the "shoulder" of the road because they could not make the distance, (unlikely more than 200 km) in one night.
We travelled in the back of a 4 x 4 covered pick up. I didn't sleep and have the ass bruises to show for my suffering. (And the Malagasy travel bragging rights). But by Friday mid6day we were on the beautiful island of Nosy Komba where we spent 3 nights. Again, relaxing on the beach. The island is also home to a family of lemurs so accustomed to humans they jump on your shoulders and eat bananas off your shoulders. Fantastic!
NK is also a proud island, having bounced back, on their own accord, from near total deforestation to near total vegetation in less than 10 years. The place to stay is a village of not more than 1060 people. Frequented by few overnight visitors, Robyn and I were a bit of an event for the village, esp. the kids and esp. because we were so often sitting on the beach. It was a delight to watch Robyn talk with , and fascinate, the kids. The final notable here was our hotelier --of Malagasy and German parents, he was very organized , in a very laid back way! Ha!

Now we are in the town of Hellville on Nosy Be. It is a charming, and relatively affluent place. Last night we celebrated having passed the Georgia State Bar exam with a dinner of the plentiful street food (on a Monday night the streets were packed with stands and people eating by candlelight!), and more than a couple drinks!

So ... Madagascar. A place like none other I have seen. A bundle of new experiences for me .. and, accordingto Robyn, welcome closure for a powerful and complex experience for her.

Tonight we fly to the capitol and Thrusday morning start off for Tanzania. Robyn will take the blog back, and likely chime in after the safari around the 5th of June, or after Zanzibar a coule of days later.

Home soon.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Congratulations on passing the GA Bar! It must be a relief to know for sure that that's done.

I'm loving the stories of Madagascar. We miss you & can't wait to see you next month.

courtneynandy said...

Hey guys! I am so happy to hear you had such a fabulous experience in Madagascar. How fantastic that people remembered you. I can only imagine how you felt. It's hard to believe you are on your last leg of your trip. And of course, congrats on passing the bar! Although, neither Andy nor I had any doubts that you wouln't pass. :) We are counting down the days to seeing you two again.

courtneynandy said...

Hey guys! I am so happy to hear you had such a fabulous experience in Madagascar. How fantastic that people remembered you. I can only imagine how you felt. It's hard to believe you are on your last leg of your trip. And of course, congrats on passing the bar! Although, neither Andy nor I had any doubts that you wouln't pass. :) We are counting down the days to seeing you two again.

Unknown said...

Congratulations on passing the GA Bar! Now that you've proven you could do that, it's time to return to Seattle!!! And, in any case, Peter is badly needed: Whole Foods ran out of latkes! Ari