Friday, May 16, 2008

Fianar to Isalo and back , through Soatanana

Our next fext few days were spent further south, particularly in the town of Fianar and the National Park Isalo. We were accompanied by Francis, the brother in law of Robyn's good frien Dila, another former Peace Corp volunteer. Francis served as our driver and guide.

Fianar is hte second biggest city in the country and is comparable to Xela in many ways given its high altitude and chilly nights. Thursday was spent walking around town and buying a few photos by one of Robyn's favorite photographers, Pierrot Men native to Mad. , who has his lab here.

Friday we drove to Isalo. The landscape, a mix of green hills and rocky outcrops reminded me of Ireland. On the other side of the car the cattle were constantly passing by, evoking, I thought, Texas (though I have never been).

Isalo is Mad's answer to the Badlands of South Dakota; (Think also Sedona in Arizona and the Grand Canyon). The rock "madif" stretches majestically for miles. The climate is arid, though rain did come in the late afternoon. We stayed at Chez Alice, in a bungalow looking out on the park and the meadow in front of it. The first night we visited the museum, which helpfully had some English ! We also saw a beautiful naturallyformed rock "window", where tourist gathered to watch a breathtaking sunset.

Saturday we spent all day walking in the park. We explored Canyon Maki and its various pools and natural showers. Another natural pool site we shared with a crew of bouisterous local teens on a school field trip. Our final stop was the most beautiful swimming spot, Cascade de Nymphe. We were the first to arrive so it was serenely undisturbed. On the path in we also happened upon, to our AWE, a group of 11 RING TAILED LEMURS, hanging out calmly in a tree above a campsite. We took way too many photos.
Our guide also clued us in on a bit of cultual info about the local Bara people, including the practice of young men suitors having to "steal" a cow before they can propose to their beloeved. Also, that long ago the Sakalav people, native now to Robyn's beloeve northern region, used to live here.

The trip wound down the next day with a short drive south padt a saphire mine, past the Baobab trees and cactuses native only to the southern region, and back to the village of Ambalavao near Fianar at night. In the morning we visited a very interesting artesenal paper making company and then continued to the towon of Soatanana, an hour and a half on a dirt road to the west of Fianar. Soatanana is famed for the presence of a rare Lutheran sect whose faithful where all white and sing very well. Sure enough upon arrival we were brought directly to the church. The mayor was there and the congregation was in "full throat". We were welcomed , and paraded through town all the wayto the mayor's house. In the courtyard, the congragation of several dozen looked on as a few of their own, with great dignity, washed our feet .. recalling the actions of Jesus. They then gave us lunch in the mayor's huose. A few select others also at with us. Most watched. And sang. The singing never stopped from the moment we arrived. It was extraordinary. Unlike anything I had ever seen.

Then back to Fianar to rest and ready ourselves for the trip north. We went out for walk on Tuesday night and were besieged by young kids... many happy to practice their English on us.

1 comment:

Rachel said...

Hi guys! Loved reading your story about the singing Lutherans. If we can do anything right, it's that! ;) Miss you much!